28th of May

Every exhibition comes in fact to an end only after the display is dismantled.

This morning we went through this process, which must always bring acutely contradictory feelings: on the one hand, a kind of sadness, since the dynamic process of hosting guests to the exhibition is over; but on the other hand, a sort of satisfaction that the exposure of the inner self of the persons behind the camera is completed without damages and complaints, but only with fine memories of a dream world as was created by the images – an imaginary world. In the case of our exhibition “From Nubia to Sudan” hosted at the Institute for Mediterranean Studies, the imaginary little Nubian world at the long narrow street of the old town of Rethymno will hopefully live on somehow: our hosts at the Institute accepted our gift of a group of photographs from the display that more than 500 people enjoyed the last ten days.

This is perhaps why the nostalgic overtones of this entry: etymologically the word comes from the term “nostos” which means the “return”; and every departure carries the expectation of a return…

Departing from Rethymno, though meant also a salutation of people and places that had become our neighborhood since the 13th of May. First and foremost, our hotel at Archipelagos

…so nicely situated by one of the finest places for swimming inside the town of Rethymno…

…and with one of the finest views we know of…

…irrespectively of weather conditions…

…although our favorite one is undoubtedly the one that we will post tomorrow and thereby bring to an end our daily blogging that lasted exactly a month!

23rd of May

The exhibition “From Nubia to Sudan” in the Institute for Mediterranean Studies is on its eighth day and the interest by the locals and the foreigners in the town of Rethymno continues to be high.

At the same time, however, continues also the struggle to stop the dams in Sudan with ever increasing members of the academic community involved, like the Society for Africanist Archaeologists who posted today news and links on the topic inspired by the BM meeting of the 15th of May. We therefore decided to show here a photo of the panel dedicated to the dams’ crisis in Sudan as it appears in our exhibition “From Nubia to Sudan” .

Tomorrow, by the way, we are expecting two groups of students attending the sixth grade in a primary school of the town to talk about children in Nubia, their future, and the future of their land – really looking forward to experiencing this!

22nd of May

The main event of the day at the IMS was the lecture of the Greek professor, Alexandros Koutsis, on the “Arab Spring and the New Order in the Middle East”.

The lecture took place in the frame of the photo exhibition “From Nubia to Sudan” and professor Koutsis seemed a fitting choice for the venue, given the fact that the Greek professor was born in Sudan! His lecture attracted many people and surely brought further attention to our exhibition.

Moreover, and in a more familiar “revolutionary” atmosphere, we would like to inform about the latest developments of the issue of the dams, which is so central for our exhibition. After the meeting at the British Museum on the 15th of May, perhaps a “new order” is arising for the Middle Nile Valley too. HERE can be found a report from that meeting, as it was compiled on the basis of testimonies from colleagues who were present in London last week.

21st of May

Today the Greek Orthodox Church is celebrating the memory of Saints Constantine and Helene, the first Emperor of Constantinople and his mother, who is granted the honor of discovering the Holy Cross in Jerusalem. We would never attempt to re-discuss from here the subtleties of the hagiographic details of this commemoration. Nubiologically, though, we should comment as a passing note the lack of any reference to either name among the list of names used by Nubians as collected by Grzegorz Ochala and presented HERE. Since we are also not aware of any mural depicting the two saints (normally depicted together flanking the Holy Cross), it becomes quite interesting that in a Christian land where the cross was so much venerated, a commemoration of its discoverer has not been recorded yet!

However, in our little Nubiological world in Rethymno, three persons celebrating their name-day on the 21st of May stand out: one is Eleni Zerva, with whom we prepared yesterday’s entry. The other is Mrs. Eleni who runs our hotel called “Archipelagos“. We will be writing about “Archipelagos” on our departure from Rethymno, as we will be saying goodbye to our “home” (t)here. Today, however, we wish to dedicate the entry to Kostis Spanoudakis and his parents who run the excellent bakery, which has already appeared twice in previous entries from Rethymno, HERE and HERE. Kostis himself has already appeared on the corner of the first photo in THIS entry!

Although everybody is attracted by the smells of the Spanoudakis’ family bakery, our son was the first who ventured to explore the locality from close!

Henriette followed him and photographed him trying to enjoy the delicacies of the bakery! But Kostis was nearby and this kept little Ilias at stead 😉

In the end, both the wedding breads…

…and the baptismal cookies…

…all prepared by Kostis’ mother were tested and profoundly enjoyed!

But the exchanges between our venue and the bakery did not stop there…this morning Mr. Spanoudakis honored us with a visit to our exhibition!

And despite his eagerness to hear about Sudan, it was us who learnt from his visit, because we found out that since 1978, when he first opened his bakery at that spot, the hall where our exhibition is hosted had been a cattle pen, a winery, and his own storing place for the fuel needed to fire his ovens!!

With an art going back to 1958…

…M. Spanoudakis still teaches about life from his Cretan point of view!

ΠΟΛΛΑ ΤΑ ΕΤΗ!

20th of May

During the opening hours of the photo exhibition “From Nubia to Sudan”, our hosts at the Institute for Mediterranean Studies (IMS) employed the post-graduate student of Rethymno University, BA Eleni Zerva, as assistant.

Eleni is specializing in Modern and Contemporary Greek and European History, after having completed her bachelor degree in History at the Ionian University (Corfu). Before entering the Ionian University, she attended two years of studies in Social Anthropology at the Aegean University (Mytilene).

Eleni’s experience from these three different island universities has given her the chance to appreciate the quality of historical and anthropological studies in peripheral university centers of Greece. Therefore, she has seen from close the problematic nature of funding for students in non-central academic institutions of a country, where in general the state economic support is much inferior in relation to similar institutions in Europe. Since the professors and researchers are not enough backed by the state machine, the quality of studies is dependent upon their own benevolence and enthusiasm for the object of their work. In this context, Eleni would judge the result of studying in the IMS in Rethymno as a blessed situation since aside inspiring teachers, and a very rich library, IMS and its members have the luck of being mainly funded by the economically powerful Foundation for Research and Technology, Hellas (FORTH – based in Heraklion, Crete). She adds, however, that the knowledge of the past, as it is excellently serviced at the Institute is in its essence – or should be – object and aim of the state and of the local authorities. They are ideally the ones most interested in the promotion of such research, in the strengthening of related studies, and in the application and use of the results deriving from these researches and studies.

More specifically, the objective of the IMS’s research program is to study the geographical space, the history and culture of Greece and the other Mediterranean countries in various historical periods, from prehistory to modern times. In order to achieve these objectives, the research projects of the Institute are organized along the following axes:

  1. Turkish Studies
  2. History Studies
  3. Art History
  4. History of the theater – Ethnomusicology
  5. The Laboratory of Geophysical-Satelite Remote Sensing & Archeo-Environment

Eleni comments that the IMS focuses its research agenda in the Eastern Mditerranean, both in the coastal and the inland towns, as well as in the rural countryside of these urban centers. It highlights the importance of the Eastern Mediterranean region as a geographical meeting point, as a point of exchange and mutual influence between the cultures of the Christian West and the Islamic East. This historical and cultural significance can hardly be underscored from the viewpoint of national historiographies, given the fact that their interests are confined within the national borders; and contrary to the perspectives of supra- or trans-national zones where civilization intermingle and intertwine. Eleni sums it up by saying that the Eastern Mediterranean constitutes a privileged field, a melting pot, where Christianity and Islam meet and receive together aspects of the world of the Indian Ocean and Africa.

This idea would set the Nile Valley in a very central position in the mind framework and conceptual horizons of the IMS, and therefore explains well, according to Eleni, why the exhibition “From Nubia to Sudan” found its place in the agenda of events of the IMS for the year 2012.

Moreover, she thinks that the exhibition “From Nubia to Sudan” is narrating a past of a similar melting pot of cultures, where images of mosques and qubbas converse with Christian and Pagan temples, pyramids and the faithful in prayer; images that trace the passing of historical time and narrate the longue durée starting from Medieval Nubia to end with Sudan of today.

And she concludes: «These images were brought to Crete by the Greek-Norwegian Archaeological Mission that seems to have navigated down the Nile, as if carrying a Greek-speaking manuscript, crossing Sai Island, and arriving at the Mediterranean Sea, brining the message that Sudan is much closer and much more familiar than we would initially think».

Our own conclusion would be phrased as an enquiry: whether perhaps Eleni’s experience of working with us for two weeks will make her revive an old interest she had on African studies, the Greek diasporas in the sub-Saharan belt, and the formation of (Greek) national identity/-ies in the hosting countries.

17th of May

As promised last night, today’s entry will include a couple of photos from the opening of the exhibition of photographs “From Nubia to Sudan through the eyes of the Greek-Norwegian Archaeological Mission” at the Institute for Mediterranean Studies in Rethymno.

More than 50 persons attended the venue, which was highlighted by an introduction from the director of the Institute professor Christos Hadziiossif and a general presentation of the exhibition by Alexandros.

Among the visitors, the Consul of Norway at Chania, Ms. Sirmatenia Paraschaki, and Assistant Ms. Nicole Karamanlis honored us with their presence.

Today, the first day of our exhibition, the interest of the passers-by and the locals remained high. Nice meetings and passionate talks were in the program, but allow us to close with a photo of Henriette with a traditional costume from Norway (bunad) in a spirit of celebration of the Norwegian Constitution Day.

Gratulerer med dagen!

________________

P.S. The highly decorated costume includes a special pattern that links Henriette’s bunad to Sai Island!

This will be the topic of tomorrow’s entry…

…but can anyone spot it out already???

16th of May

The hours before the opening of the exhibition “From Nubia to Sudan” were – as it is always the case on such days – very hectic. But the contribution by more technicians collaborating with the Institute for Mediterranean Studies…

…as well as the major and constant assistance of Antonis Xydianos…

…brought us tonight to a very successful venue about which we will write more tomorrow, presenting also photos and comments!

15th of May

To the financial crisis of the Greek state, the political crisis of the Greek society seems to be adding up to the list of problems in our second home… we like to remain optimistic, though, perhaps because we belong to a sort of extremes…

…as it can be seen in fact in the photo, where the poster of our exhibition at Rethymno is framing from one side political posters, flanked on the left from the banner of the photo exhibition that we visited today in the Old City: Old photos from the city of Rethymno… but, please, do not consider that we have been idle, strolling in the city visiting cultural venues! The preparations for tomorrow’s opening naturally accelerated today and the following photo blinks the eye to those who have the experience of setting up an exhibition!

We are really looking forward to opening the doors to those interested in seeing and discussing how the Greek-Norwegian Archaeological Mission perceives the passage “From Nubia to Sudan“!

14th of May

Today the setting up of the exhibition at Rethymno started!

Slowly, but steadily, the display is taking up its form. Key person in the works is Antonis Xydianos, himself an active photographer.

The cozy alley of Nikiforou Foka in the Old Town of Rethymno is the location of the Institute of Mediterranean Studies that hosts our exhibition.

More from Rethymno tomorrow…